Cod en Papillote
Cod en Papillote with Coconut Basmati Pilaf
Excerpted from Flavorwalla by Floyd Cardoz (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2016.
From Floyd:
For guaranteed tender results, great make-ahead potential, and minimal cleanup—all ideal party food characteristics—you can’t beat cooking fish in individual packages, or en papillote. This recipe is based on a dish that I used to do at Tabla, but the first time I prepared it for a party outside of the restaurant, I wasn’t at home—I was in a makeshift kitchen preparing dinner at the Cape Cod wedding reception of Shake Shack CEO Randy Garutti and Maria McGrath. The thing is, until I’d arrived at the breathtakingly beautiful location with all the makings for two hundred individual packages of aromatic rice and cod, I hadn’t realized that I’d be preparing the food without the modest convenience of an actual oven. When I discovered that the only heat sources we had to work with were Sterno and plate warmers, I admit that I shared one or two colorful observations. But it turns out that Sterno and plate warmers can maintain a pretty constant temperature of 240°F, and that absolutely perfect, extremely tender results can be had by cooking cod en papillote for 45 minutes at this temperature. It’s a trick I haven’t felt compelled to repeat too often, thus the recipe below.
Another reason this is a good party dish is that the components are easy to prepare and can be done in advance. Then they are brought together to make something spectacular—both in flavor and appearance. This is especially true if you use banana leaves (available at Asian grocery stores), which impart a grassy, herbaceous quality that cannot be otherwise replicated. If you have a gas or electric flat-top stove, running the leaves through the flame or over the burner once or twice will soften them and keep them from tearing; if you have a different kind of stovetop, such as a traditional coil-burner electric stove, use parchment paper instead. Even in parchment, however, the dish is impressive, and always delicious. I also love the subtle but important role the salt cod plays. It is toasted so that it contributes a triple hit of aromatic goodness: saltiness, toastiness, and fishiness. When I was a kid in India, salt cod was a staple during monsoon season, when fresh fish was scarce. I like using it in a way that allows it to transcend its humble origins.
SERVES: 12
COOKING TIME: About 1 hour, 40 minutes
NOTE: There’s no need to open two cans of coconut milk and not use all the second can if you’d rather not. You can use just one can and make up the rest of the volume with water.
INGREDIENTS:
2 ounces/57 grams salt cod, thinly sliced
¼ cup canola oil
2 tablespoons minced shallots
One 1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and minced
2 whole cloves
1 bay leaf
1½ cups white basmati rice, rinsed, soaked, and drained
2½ cups Chaokoh-brand coconut milk, stirred well (or coconut milk and water; see Note)
Sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1½ cups shelled fresh peas (about 1½ pounds/680 grams in the pod)
1 pound (14 ounces/850 grams) cod fillet, cut into 12 equal pieces
12 large pieces (roughly letter-paper-sized) banana leaf or twelve 10- to 12-inch squares parchment paper
12 cilantro sprigs, washed and dried
DIRECTIONS:
In a cast-iron skillet, toast the salt cod over medium-low heat until it is lightly golden, about 10 minutes. Remove from the pan and set aside. If the pieces are large, shred slightly once cooled.
Heat a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the oil, then add the shallots, ginger, cloves, and bay leaf and sauté, stirring often, until the shallots are translucent, 3 to 4 minutes.
Add the drained rice and stir with a silicone spatula to thoroughly coat it in oil. Cook, stirring frequently, for about 4 minutes. Add the coconut milk and salt cod, increase the heat to medium-high, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat, season the rice with sea salt and pepper, cover the pan, and simmer until the rice is tender, about 15 minutes.
Remove and discard the cloves and bay leaf. Spread the rice on a rimmed baking sheet and let cool completely.
Meanwhile, blanch, shock, and drain the peas. Both the rice and the peas can be made up to 1 day in advance. Refrigerate in two separate covered containers. Let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes before continuing with the recipe.
To make the papillotes, preheat the oven to 350°F. Have ready two rimmed baking sheets.
Season the cod with salt and a generous amount of pepper. Stir the peas into the rice and divide the mixture into 12 equal portions.
If using banana leaves, turn on a gas or electric flat-top burner to medium-high. Holding a leaf with tongs, pull it through the flame or across the burner once very quickly. Repeat on the other side. Repeat with the remaining leaves.
Place a banana leaf (or a sheet of parchment) on the work surface. Place one portion of rice and peas in the center of it, center a piece of fish on top of the rice, and top with a sprig of cilantro. Fold the two longer edges up over the fish and fold and crimp them together. Fold the two narrow ends under the package. If using banana leaves, you can tear a long thin piece from another leaf and tie it around the center to secure the package. Place the papillote on a baking sheet and assemble the remaining packages.
Place the papillotes in the oven and cook for 20 minutes. Transfer the papillotes to a large serving platter and serve immediately.
